Gervase Markham, 1615, brewing and baking,
Hugh Platt (1594 son of London Brewer), Recipes for Ladies, Jewell House of Nature; British Library collection of his mss (Sloane mss);
breads portrayed in 16th-century paintings
wheat starch paste (Merrifield; see Lila Goldenberg annotation;)

Annotation 1:

• Bread core features: flour + water + cooked so both bread and ostie come under that
• What has been the importance of bread from antiquity to early modern period?
  • o Galen (bread as meat; bread as primordial nourishing substance, essence of life)
  • o Homer
  • o Pliny
  • o Aristotle
  • What is the Christian context for bread?
    • o Flesh as bread and inversely
    • o The Eucharist
      • Supervised by priest
      • Made by monks in monastery
      • Emphasis on cleanliness, lack of physical contact with the material
      • What kinds of bread existed in early modern Europe?
        • o Different flours
          • § Particularities of different breads depending on what flour was used
          • § Additives for “bread” from non-flour ingredients due to shortages and hunger
• o Regional preferences
• o Class associations to certain kinds of bread (eg wheat bread for the wealthy)
• o In the context of the manuscript:
  • § talks about “subtile” flour, ie. wheat?
  • § Toulousains preferred wheat (Kaplan)
  • Where was bread baked?
    • o Flour dictated what kind of cooking device was needed (wheat required specialized oven, more ‘vulgar’ oats and barley could be cooked on the hearth)
    • o Bakers’ guild and the bakery
      • § Structure of the guilds: master, geindre, garcons, apprentices
      • § Female bakers
• o Bread cooked in the home by the wife
  • § Domestic practice penetrating and supporting workshop activities
    • Bread as payment method
• o Bread prepared in the home but brought to the bakery to be baked for a fee
• o Bread prepared in the home and baked at a communal oven for a fee
• o Bread baked in the workshop
  • § Similarity of bakers’ ovens and metallurgic kilns in visual sources
  • § Proximity of the workshop to the kitchen
  • Bread in the manuscript
    • o Reiterate possibilities, make hypotheses (wheat bread in workshop oven for eg)
    • o Hostie in the manuscript
      • § Likely not actual Eucharist due to what we know of its production (ie would not have been made in a workshop/home but in the monastery)
      • § Perhaps refers to unleavened bread, in medicinal context uses “ostie” to indicate no yeast should be used, referring to flour + water combination
      • § Hostie in a medical recipe identifies likely setting as the home because that is where most medicinal cooking took place, which might bring closer together the workshop and the home

Annotation 2:

• Knowlegde and memory studied through the BnF and its use of bread as a material mnemonic (bread ubiquitous, a telling choice)
• What is the “genre” of BnF Ms. Fr. 640?
  • o Miscellany vs. Encyclopedia
    • § Forms of encyclopedia (discursive prose, dialogue, poetry)
    • § Forms of miscellany (questions, manual, varia lectiones)
    • § Culinary recipe books (similarities with BnF: form, contents, exchange)
    • § Books of secrets (manuscript and not print; but on the other hand not all recipes certified by experiment, so working towards finished product)
    • How does this “genre” relate to new ideas about knowledge and craft?
      • o Embodied knowledge (new philosophy and Paracelsus)
        • § Craft knowledge acquired through observation and repetition
• o Mystical material union (making is act of worship for Paracelsus)
  • § bread is illustration of this: divine metaphor of craft and of bread (divine body akin to human body, it breathes, is alive, is flesh, contains sweat; manipulating it is like manipulating flesh; refer to own experience with making bread and Field Notes)
  • Recipe is aide-memoire
    • o Through the written form
    • o Through allusions to tacit knowledge
      • § Writing and senses waging a war
      • § Tacit knowledge using bread mnemonic in the BnF and in Cennini and Piccolpasso
      • Memory
        • o Aristotle and the internal senses
          • § Memory is primarily visual
          • § Memory corporeal
            • Aristotle’s worries about diet corrupting memory
            • Galen’s concoction theory and relation to memory
            • When eat bread, its image is embedded in the memory, but the memory is only able to function because spirits from the ingested bread become animal spirits. Bread as food is thus essential to memory-making but can also corrupt it by producing bad humors.
• o Aquinas and reversal of sense hierarchy
  • § Importance of touch
• o Touch and memory
  • § The hand
    • Organ of knowledge and communication
    • Superior to eye: motor and sensory
    • Intelligence develops with manipulative precision and not with increasing visual acuity
  • § The neuroscience of touch
    • Tactile memory and its subsystems
    • Haptic and passive touch
    • Role of visual imagery (intermediality of the senses)
    • Implicit nature of much tactile memory
    • Mechanisms that perceive touch are same as those that make tactile memory (more direct relationship between sense and its memory)
    • Mirror neurons
    • Conclusion:
      • o Touch in the manuscript manifested by use of bread as mnemonic device evokes these ideas related to knowledge and memory and the difficulty of grasping what it means simultaneously shows the paucity of words to describe craft practices and the richness of touch as a sense upon which to rely.
      • o Intellectual and material generosity of bread

Bread as Maker’s Mnemonic

Recipes in the BnF that use bread in this manner: 29r, 84r, 114v, 129v, 130r

<div>
<id>p029r_1</id>
<head><m>Stuc</m> pour mouler</head>
<ab>Ayes de la <m>gomme dragant</m> et la mectes tremper jusques a ce quayant<lb/>
beu son <m>eau</m> elle soict enflee &amp; reduicte comme gelee Lors broyes la bien<lb/>
fort sur le <m>mabre</m> &amp; apres ayes de la <m>farine de Segle</m> qui est meilleure<lb/>
que celle de <m>froment</m> a cause quelle est plus humide et ne rend pas la paste<lb/>
si brusque Et en saulpouldres v{ost}re <m>gomme dragant</m> &amp; continues a broyer<lb/>
<add>et mesler</add>ainsy peu a peu <del>le et mesler legi</del> la <m>farine</m> bien subtillement <tl>tamisee</tl> Et<lb/>
la pestrisses co{mm}e si vous voulies faire du <m>pain</m> Jusques a ce que <del>vous</del><lb/>
vous cognoissies quelle aye asses de corps &amp; soict ferme comme la paste du<lb/>
<m>pain</m> quon veult mectre au <tl>four</tl> Cela se cognoist quand elle sestire<lb/>
asses sans se rompre Et si elle nestoict asses forte elle ne se <del>sti</del> despouilleroit<lb/>
pas bien Estant ainsy præparee frottes d<m>huile</m> lecave <del>au u</del> avecq une<lb/>
<tl>broisse</tl> affin que l<m>huile</m> penetre par tout pour mieulx faire despouiller<lb/>
Et presses la paste dedans bien fort Et si elle ne se despouille pas<lb/>
bien mesles y encores de la <m>farine</m> jusques a ce quelle aye asses de corps<lb/>
Avecq cella vous mouleres fort net telle ouvraige ou masques ou festons<lb/>
quil vous plaira qui seront secs dans <ms>un iour</ms> Apres vous les apliqueres<lb/>
avecq <m>colle forte</m> ou <m>colle de paste</m> comme il vous plaira Et les pourres<lb/>
paindre et estoffer d<m>or</m> &amp; toutes couleurs On en faict les ornements des<lb/>
planchers a <pl>romme</pl> On en peult faire des ornements de lits <rub>Si tu veulx<lb/>
que louvrage demeure blanc</rub> il vault mieulx mouler de <m>plastre</m><lb/>
au lieu de <m>farine</m> il est vray quil est plus brusc et plus ferme aussy<lb/>
Mays il le fault præparer en ceste sorte Destrempe le estant en<lb/>
<m>pouldre</m><del>fort</del> dans bonne quantite d<m>eau</m> de sorte quil soict <add>clair</add> &amp; le<lb/>
broye plusieurs fois le <tmp>jour</tmp> lespace de <ms>quinze jours</ms> Puys verse<lb/>
l<m>eau</m> par inclination Et ramasse le <m>plastre</m> &amp; le broye subtillem{ent} sur<lb/>
la <m>mabre</m> Et le pose en quelque <tl>vaisseau</tl><m>plombe</m> &amp; net quil ny<lb/>
tombe aulcune poulsiere &amp; ordure &amp; le laisse a lair &amp;<env>au serain</env> lespace<lb/>
de <ms>quinze jours</ms> avecq son <m>eau</m> Et il deviendra mat fort blanc et<lb/>
legier fort propre a faire assiete d<m>or</m> bruny Et de cestuy cy en<lb/>
pouldre peulx tu mesler au lieu de <m>farine</m> parmy la <m>gomme dragant</m><lb/>
Et ton ouvraige sera fort beau En default de plastre tu y peulx<lb/>
mesler de la <m>croye</m> bien broyee Ou de la <m>ceruse</m> &amp; essayer du <m>bol</m> &amp;<lb/>
choses semblables Ce <m>stuc</m> avecq la <m>gomme dragant</m> a cela de propre<lb/>
que comme il preste nestant pas encores sec il sacommode ou sur<lb/>
choses rondes ou plattes co{mm}e il te plaira Cest pour faire un<lb/>
ornement a peu de frais
</ab>
<ab>
<margin>left-top</margin>
La <m>farine</m> nest<lb/>
bonne en cecy Ains<lb/>
la <m>croye</m> ou <m>ceruse</m>
</ab>
</div>

<div>
<id>p084r_a1</id>
<head>Masque in promptu</head>
<ab>Moules du <m>papier</m> &amp; le pose sur le visaige de quelqun qui fasse<lb/>
laide grimace laisse seicher &amp; prens ton patron pour<lb/>
paindre de la</ab>
<ab># &amp; enleveures Il ne fault pas aussy quil soit trop humide<lb/>
pour les raisons susdictes Recuits le aussy peu <add>a peu</add> Et si apres<lb/>
lavoir moule tu le laissois seicher lentem{ent} en quelque lieu sec<lb/>
&amp; non a grand foeu il seroit mieulx Car quand on lexpose<lb/>
tout a coup a grande chaleur il senvele Je croy que le recuire<lb/>
a la gueule du four apres que le pain en est tire seroit fort<lb/>
propre Il ne fault point plaindre la peyne de le bien acommoder<lb/>
Car il soubstient tant de gects que tu vouldras a cause quil se<lb/>
rend dur comme mabre &amp; tu le peulx polir &amp; le moule ne se peult<lb/>
gaster Ayant servy pile le &amp; tamise de nouveau sans toutesfois<lb/>
estre curieulx de le rendre si subtil <del>I</del> car estant seulem{ent} passe par<lb/>
un commun tamis il ha plus de force <del>que</del> et despouille mieulx que quand<lb/>
il est si subtil</ab>
</div>

<div>
<cont/>
<id>p114r_1</id>
<ab>Cela ainsy præpare pose ton <del>de</del> premier demy molle sur la<lb/>
tourtelle de <del>terre</del><m>ardille</m> &amp; y mects le cercle de mesme aultour<lb/>
&amp; fais la marque de lespesseur semblable a la premiere<lb/>
puys avecq un aultre <tl>pinceau</tl> asses grosset mouille bien<lb/>
par tout la moictie <del>&amp; le ventre</del> descouverte de ton animal<lb/>
<del>Et</del><add>d<m>eau de vye</m></add> sans laisser rien sil est possible qui nen soict mouille<lb/>
car cest le secret qui faict venir net Et apres le plus<lb/>
promptement quil te sera possible devant que l<m>eau de viye</m><lb/>
<del>ne</del> sesvapore destrempe ton sable et le gecte a secousses<lb/>
et en souflant &amp; mouva{n}t le moule co{mm}e tu as faict au<lb/>
premier prenant garde que le <del>premier q</del> commancem{ent} de<lb/>
ce que tu verses sur lanimal doibt estre un peu plus cler<lb/>
que le suivant affin quil mouille bien par tout &amp; resuive les<lb/>
plus subtilles parties Adoncq laisse un quart dheure<lb/>
fayre prise puys oste le cercle &amp; tourtelle d<m>ardille</m> Et<lb/>
avec un <tl>costeau</tl> adapte tes deulx moles uniment ensemble<lb/>
en forme longuette de mandorre co{mm}e dict est a cause du<lb/>
gect Et trempe un peu tout le moule mesmem{ent} a droit<lb/>
les joinctures dans l<m>eau</m> Car cecy est un aultre secret<lb/>
pour les desjoindre Aultrement tu romprois tout<lb/>
Separes les doncq par ce moyen dextrement Et apres<lb/>
retire doulcement &amp; avec patience et moyen la moictie<lb/>
de lanimal demeure dans lun des moules <del>pour</del> le tirant<lb/>
tantost dun coste &amp; tantost dun aultre pour eviter de ne rompre<lb/>
rien diceluy ne gaster aussy quelque chose du moule <del>Et</del><lb/>
lequel estant vuide <del>retire</del> rejoints les deulx moicties affin<lb/>
que aulcune poulsiere ny entre &amp; les mects a part jusques a<lb/>
ce que tu les veuilles recuire faire les gect &amp; les souspirals<lb/>
&amp; mectre les <tl>crampons</tl> Et quand a lanimal affin quil ne<lb/>
se seiche &amp; que tu en puisse mouler quattre ou cinq fois<lb/>
mects le dans l<m>eau</m> Et croy quil se garderoit encores<lb/>
mieulx dans l<m>eau de vye</m> Toutesfois le mieux seroit de mouler<lb/>
au mesme jour les 4 ou 5 moules que tu peulx faire<lb/>
pourceque ces animaulx infects deulx mesmes sont dans<lb/>
un jour puants Ayant laisse tes moules un jour ou deulx <del>es</del> a essorer<lb/>
car il se garderont humides bien un moys fais les souspirails a une moictie
<figure>
<id>fig_p114v_3</id>
<link>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9-oNrvWdlO5dkk3MW10YzNIbDg</link>
</figure>
</ab>
<ab><figure>+</figure>
<margin>left-top</margin>
Note que quand tu as<lb/>
faict ton second <add>gect</add> si tu<lb/>
laissois un jour ou une<lb/>
nuict ton moule sans<lb/>
louvrir Il te le fauldroit<lb/>
apres tremper dans<lb/>
l<m>eau</m> chaulde ou bien<lb/>
le recuire plustost que<lb/>
louvrir co{mm}e pour les<lb/>
chancres</ab>
<ab>
<margin>left-top</margin>
Si apres que les deulx<lb/>
moicties du noyau ont<lb/>
faict prise forte &amp; dure<lb/>
tu ne trampois le moule<lb/>
dans l<m>eau</m> il ne se<lb/>
desjoindroit point Mays<lb/>
comme tu trempes le revers<lb/>
du moule dans l<m>eau</m> l<m>huile</m><lb/>
imbeue se retire a la superficie<lb/>
&amp; adroit les joinctures &amp; les<lb/>
faict separer</ab>
<ab>
<margin>left-middle</margin>
Toutesfois advise<lb/>
bien que ton second moule<lb/>
soict de bonne espesseur<lb/>
&amp; quil soict asses dur<lb/>
pourceque sil manque<lb/>
en cela apres lavoir<lb/>
trempe en l<m>eau</m> &amp; que<lb/>
tu le vouldras ouvrir<lb/>
il y a dangier quil<lb/>
ne se rompe Advise<lb/>
doncq dobvier a cela<lb/>
Et le voulant ouvrir<lb/>
trempe le tout dans<lb/>
l<m>eau</m><add>et le frotte par tout</add> ou il sendurcira<lb/>
sil ha faict bonne<lb/>
prise Alors prends<lb/>
tes deulx moules joincts<lb/>
avecq un <m>linge</m> rude<lb/>
pour avoir plus de<lb/>
prise Et separe les<lb/>
avecq force co{mm}e si<lb/>
tu voulois escarteler<lb/>
un pain Mays sil<lb/>
advient quil se rompe<lb/>
joincts le &amp; par le<lb/>
revers fortifie les joinctures avecq des <tl>crampons</tl>
<figure>
<id>fig_p114v_4</id>
<link>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9-oNrvWdlO5NmZxVUxKTmhYSXM</link>
</figure>
</ab>
<ab>
<margin>bottom</margin>
Apres tu peulx reparer les faultes<lb/>
avecq de petits <tl>ciseaulx</tl>
<cont/>
</ab>
</div>

<div>
<id>p129v_1</id>
<head>Animaulx seiches au four<lb/>
de longue duree</head>
<ab>Plantes les sur une plastre de terre les disposant avecq<lb/>
des poinctes de fil de <m>fer</m> co{mm}e si tu les voulois mouler et <del>ilz</del><lb/>
les seiche au four apres que le <m>pain</m> est tire Et ilz demeurre<lb/>
tousjours ainsy Tant <al>serpents</al><al>oyseaulx</al> que autres Mays<lb/>
il fault quilz soient promptem{ent} seiches</ab>
<ab>
<margin>left-top</margin>
Note quil leur fault<lb/>
donner leur plant &amp; les<lb/>
mectre dans le sable<lb/>
co{mm}e les fleurs<lb/>
&amp; promptement<lb/>
les fayre seicher<lb/>
au four qui soict<lb/>
asses chault co{mm}e quand<lb/>
on en tire le <m>pain</m> Et<lb/>
quil y demeure un iour<lb/>
&amp; une nuict affin quil soict<lb/>
bien <del>chau</del> sec car aultrem{ent}<lb/>
il seroict puant<lb/>
Toutesfois advise<lb/>
que le four ne soict<lb/>
pas trop aspre, ains<lb/>
co{mm}e la chaleur du<lb/>
soleil de juin aultrem{ent} les animaulx<lb/>
se cuisent Estant sec ne les mouille pas<lb/>
Mays nettoye les<lb/>
avecq un pinceau ou<lb/>
une broisse</ab>
</div>

<div>
<id>p130r_1</id>
<head>Animaulx seches au four</head>
<ab>Les petits <del>[Illegible]</del><al>chats</al> sescorchent et on leur oste les yeulx<lb/>
&amp; toutes les entrailles on leur mect un petit baston de long entre<lb/>
les dents pour leur faire fort ouvrir la gueule Puys avecq<lb/>
des poinctes de <m>fer</m> on leurs attache les pieds sur une petite<lb/>
table leur donnant le plant &amp; desmarche convenable Estant<lb/>
ainsy attache par les pieds <add>avec de petits aneaulx de fil de <m>fer</m> ainsy</add> Il les faut pendre au soleil [Illegible]<lb/>
leschine en bas En ceste sorte ils prenent <del>&amp;d</del> leurs ply &amp;<lb/>
se seichent &amp; le ventre se froissest &amp; la queue
demeure<lb/> hauste <add>ou avec le reply que ne luy auras donne</add> Estant par ce moyen un peu sec on leur contourne<lb/>
la teste co{mm}e on veut lasseura{n}t avecq quelque houtil Puys<lb/>
on lacheve de seicher au four quant le pain est tire Apres<lb/>
on luy mect dans le cave des yeulx des balles de <m>plomb</m> ou<lb/>
de <m>cire</m> peincte selon le naturel On les painct d<m>ancre</m> bien <m>gomme</m><lb/>
pour semblable estre de geyct on luy donne une langue peincte des<lb/>
cornes des aisles &amp; semblables fantasies ainsy des <al>rats</al> &amp;<lb/>
touts animaulx</ab>
<ab>
<margin>left-top</margin>
<figure>
<id>fig_p130r</id>
<link>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9-oNrvWdlO5cHVsNnNVQ1l5RnM</link>
</figure>
qui embrassant<lb/>
les doigts des<lb/>
pattes se fichent<lb/>
dans la plasce<lb/>
d<m>ardille</m></ab>
</div>

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